The trip is based out of the Best Western in Gardner, MT, just outside the north entrance to the park.

The primary focus of the group was wildlife and that’s where we concentrated our efforts; to find the iconic animals in the park. Our group had a very good trip, seeing and photographing everything on the list of mammals except for the hibernating species. We didn’t have a “three-dog-day” but did have a three dog week as we photographed coyote, wolf and red fox. Our driver, Mark Kundzins, was very knowledgeable of the park and had driven John’s tour group last year and worked well with him.

The snowfall in the park was very light everywhere. In the norther area of the park, the road was clear down to pavement in most places. in the southern areas there was snow cover on the roads but generally was not deep. We did have some cold temperatures, the coldest being -17º F one day. Our days were scheduled based on the availability of the snow coach so we had two days in the van, three days in the snow coach and the last day in the van.

I’ve organized my images in two galleries, the first for the northern areas where we traveled by van, and the second in which we traveled by snow coach. To see my Yellowstone in Winter images from 2011, look here.

Images from the northern road in Yellowstone NP

Images from the snow coach in the southern areas of Yellowstone NP

View the Galleries.

 At the end of September, my wife, Chris, and I visited Yellowstone National Park and Grand Teton National Park hoping to see and photograph the yellow and orange fall foliage, abundant wildlife preparing for winter, and perhaps a touch of winter itself.  We arrived with the leaves just starting to turn, scant wildlife, and temperatures in the 80’s for the first few days.  We did find a herd of 200 or so bison spread out in the Lamar Valley and on the return to Mammoth Hot Springs we found a herd of ten pronghorn does with a buck keeping order.  One evening we also had a few bighorn sheep come down the cliffs to the Gardiner River. The first evening we planned on eating at the park dining room anticipating the evening show; 30-40 elk cows with two or three bulls vying to keep track of their respective harems, and try to coax a few more cows from another harem.   We saw one nice bull, and four cows.  Where did they all go?  The introduction of wolves to the park did reduce the elk herds, but to a greater degree than initially expected.  This was a result of the overwhelming success of the wolf packs, which have done better than predicted.  The wolf/elk ratio has probably hit an equilibrium; if there are not enough elk for one reason, let’s say a bad winter, there will be fewer surviving wolf pups due to less food available, then the elk with have greater success, and then the wolf numbers will increase.

 We spent the first three nights based in Gardiner, MT, at the north entrance to Yellowstone NP.  From there it is convenient to travel to the Lamar Valley, Tower Junction and the Canyon Village section beyond, and to Norris Geyser basin.  Basically, the northern half of the park.  Mammoth Hot Springs is the northern headquarters of the park services with lodging, dining, and conveniences (general store, fuel, post office, etc.).   The springs for which the area is named, and the travertine cliffs here have changed over the years as geologic activity redirects the hot spring water below ground though subterranean limestone,  dissolving calcium carbonate and depositing it as travertine (a bone white mineral) as the water cools on the surface. But that is not what creates the rainbow of colors at this, and all other, thermal features: it’s the thermopiles (heat-loving microorganisms).  The color of the thermopiles is due to the temperature of the water.  Cooler waters support the growth of orange, brown and green thermopiles while clear and yellow thermopiles thrive in the hottest water.

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone has several viewpoints to easily view and photograph both the upper and lower falls and the Yellowstone River. There are also a number of trails that lead down into the canyon for a more intimate view of the falls. We visited the canyon on different days and at different times of day to get a variety of light into the canyon.  While overcast conditions greatly reduce shadows in the canyon, the light is not dramatic nor does it bring out the intense colors of the rock.  The sun cast a heavy shadow on half the canyon for our visit to the canyon at midday, and a return visit a few days later at 3pm with cumulous clouds in the sky provided a brightly lit inner canyon.

Our next stop was in Jackson, WY, near Jackson Hole and the Grand Tetons National Park.  Since we were so late in planning this trip, we opted to stay in Jackson, even though we would have an additional 20-minute drive into the park for sunrise.  Sunrise opportunities are numerous in Grand Teton; Schwabacher Landing, Oxbow Bend, Molton Barn, and Mormon Row.  In our exploration, we found a beaver pond near the road (about a foot away from the road) where one evening we watched two adult and two young beavers feeding on the bark and leaves of small branches within fifteen feet of us.  We visited the location several times during our four days in Jackson and did repeat the experience.

Again, wildlife was somewhat scarce, with the exception of the beaver.  We saw several elk cows and a couple of bulls in the early evening hours, but did not see a single moose.  We did see osprey on a nest but the position made photography impossible, and saw a red tail hawk flying.  In any case, the landscape photography opportunities were reasonably decent, even though proscribe forest fires at the south end of the park resulted in ground smoke at the base of the mountains.  This is evident in the images that show a grey pallor on the lower half of the mountains.

We then moved on to Old Faithful Snow Lodge for the last five nights of our stay.  This location gave us good access to the southern half of the park, and even drives to the Canyon Village area were not that far away. A large number of visitor accessible thermal features is in this area, including Old Faithful geyser.  Photographing hot pools and geysers can be challenging as they produce large amounts of steam.  Your luck will depend largely on the direction and speed of the wind, and the air temperature.  On my winter visit here, there were times when you could hear a hot pool bubbling, but couldn’t see it for all the steam surrounding it.  The higher daytime temperatures (low 70’s) while we were there offered up some interesting views of the thermal features.   I concentrated on areas of the thermal features that had striking color or interesting compositions.

The wildlife activity did eventually perk up as the nights became cooler and the daytime heat finally abated.  We saw several herds of elk along the Madison River, and bison herds could be seen at many locations with about 50 animals each, except for the big herd in the Lamar Valley.  By far the best experience was viewing a pack of wolves in the Lamar Valley returning to an elk they had killed the day earlier. At one of the pull-outs overlooking Hayden Valley, we overheard this tidbit of information from a couple that was deciding where to go next.  One at a time the wolves would come to the carcass, chase off the ravens and magpies, and try to pry meat from the bone.  Since the carcass was in the river, one wolf tried to pull it up onto the bank to get at the meat that was previously submerged.  Another big spectacle was the number of photographers who had lined up shoulder to shoulder in two locations.

After attending the Natural Exposures Yellowstone in Winter Photo Tour described in Part 1, I picked up a rental car in Bozeman and continued my winter adventure based in Gardiner, MT.  Gardiner is only a few miles from the north entrance to the park and Mammoth Hot Springs.  Highway 212 passes through the northern section of the park to Cooke City just outside the northeast park boundary.  This road is maintained year round and is the only means to reach Cooke City during the winter.

Since I arrived in late afternoon, I decided to check the road conditions and get a feel for the locations I could safely stop the car to photograph and went for a quick reconnoiter into the park after checking-in at the hotel.   Bison where close to the road, and with little traffic I stopped to photograph one group of bison eating grasses under the snow.  One had a small tuft of fur on the end of one of its horns, probably a remnant from an altercation with another bison.  I saw one bison run uphill through chest deep snow and took a series of photographs, not even thinking to switch to video.  I caught a sunset from one of the viewpoints.  After dinner in Gardiner, I returned to a pull out just before the Gardiner River Bridge to photograph the night sky.  The sky was cloudless and full of stars and a low crescent moon provided enough light to see the hillsides.  It was plenty cold, about -10^o, and I worked fast to take a few images.   The best results were taken at the 17mm, ISO 800, f4 at 30 seconds.  The trail of the stars was barely visible when viewed at 100%.  With the 50mm lens, the track of the stars was evident and not usable at over 20 seconds. It’s hard to focus through the viewfinder, and I resorted to using live view and increasing the ISO until I could focus, then reducing the ISO down to 800 to capture the image.

The next day started cold; at -27^o it was the coldest day on this trip.  The cold weather presented some interesting environmental conditions for exposure (photographically speaking).  I didn’t feel it was too cold to work, as the car was never that far away.  I did have to use gloves, and the layered clothing was comfortable enough.  My strategy for shooting in the park was to drive the road between Mammoth Hot Springs and Soda Butte Springs at the end of the Lamar Valley and possibly beyond, stopping when something good caught my eye.  The sunrise was below the nearby hills when I saw the first sundog, a refraction of sunlight through ice crystals similar to a rainbow.  The low cloud of ice crystals near the ground was brightly lit up with the sunlight, and in the middle was a bar of color.  I couldn’t see where the sun was rising over the horizon as it was behind some nearby hills.  Not wanting to waste the opportunity, I made several sets of exposure for HDR processing as the brightness range was too wide to capture in one image.  Then I drove ahead to try to see if there were sundogs on both sides and if there was the possibility of a decent image of the sunrise.  It was obvious that the sun was well above the horizon and I took advantage of a location that had the sun behind a hill, otherwise the sun would have been too bright to capture the effect.  As I entered the Lamar Valley I was able to capture the image of the southern sundog well above the horizon.  The very low temperature of the air and the steam rising off the much warmer water of the Lamar River resulted in the trees and bushes being covered in frost. I returned to Gardiner to pick up lunch, stopping along the way to photograph the Gardiner River.  There are paths and boardwalks that lead into the lower terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs; the low temperatures here resulted in great amounts of steam rolling off the hot water of the terrace.  A wide view was nearly impossible to capture although by waiting for a clear break in the steam I was able to make a few good image of the “ghost” trees at the top of the terrace.  The more intimate landscape images reinforce how cold it was, with layers of frost on the dry structures adjacent to those with hot water in them.  Another trip down the road yielded a few coyote images taken at long range with a 500mm and 2X extender.  This drive was mostly uneventful as I arrived at Soda Butte Creek parking area, turned around and headed back to a spot where I had seen two coyotes on the hillside.

When I pulled over to the side of the road, both passenger side wheels slid off the pavement into the soft snow and I couldn’t move the four-wheel drive Jeep Cherokee forward or backward.  The road is kept plowed, sometimes daily to clear off any drifting snow.  Although there are markers along the road, the edge of the pavement is hidden from view by the thin layer of snow there, and if the plow goes beyond the paved area, there is no way to know.  The plows extend beyond the wheelbase of the truck so they can plow a larger path.  Luckily, the folks in Montana are helpful and someone stopped right away even though he had a small car and no tow strap.  We both tried our cell phones, but no coverage out in the middle of nowhere.  The next pickup truck stopped and the driver had a tow strap and indicated he would turn around and be back shortly.   I crawled under the Jeep and it figures there are no tow points on a Jeep.  I found something sturdy on the rear axle assembly to attach the strap and he was able to drag the Jeep back onto the road.  I was extremely grateful for the help.  I figured I had enough excitement for the day as it was late afternoon and headed back to Gardiner.  Just up the road I stopped to chat with Daniel Cox and Randy Kokesch who had come down to photograph in the Lamar Valley for the day.  After carefully parking in a pull out, I told them my tale of woe, we compared notes, and I went on my way as the light was getting dim and they were heading back to Bozeman.

My second full day in northern Yellowstone was much the same as the first day, except that it was much, much warmer, in the 30s. Photographing at the lower terraces offered a clearer look at the mineral deposits as the amount of steam was greatly reduced. Two trips between Mammoth Hot Springs and Soda Butte Creek yielded a few scenics, good views of an American Dipper, black-tailed deer, elk, and bighorn sheep. On the first trip I found a traffic holdup near the Lamar Ranger Station; a dump truck with a plow had gone off the edge of the road and was settled at a precarious angle.  I felt a lot less foolish than I did the day before for doing the same thing.

On my last day I did a quick drive to the Lamar Valley and made a few images of scenery, bison, coyote and a Golden Eagle.  The drive back to Bozeman was uneventful, as were the flights back home.

All in all, this was a great way to see and photograph Yellowstone in winter.  The combination of wildlife, scenery and thermal areas accessed from the west side of the park by snow coach and the independence of driving the northern road made for a very productive photographic experience.

I’ve always wanted to visit Yellowstone in winter to photograph the scenery and wildlife.  After considerable internet searching, this year I signed on for a February trip with National Geographic contributing photographer Daniel J. Cox (Natural Exposures).  The trip schedule included four day-long excursions by snow coach into the park from West Yellowstone and a day on either end to travel from/to Bozeman.  Since I was going to travel to Montana, I added on three days of photographing the park from north entrance at Mammoth Hot Springs, the only area of the park that clears the roads for automobile travel during the winter.  More about my independent travels in Part 2.

Part 1 is long and includes both my trip report and a review of the Natural Exposures Yellowstone in Winter Photo Tour for those considering this trip or this tour company.

Natural Exposures Photo Tour

Booking the trip was easy with terrific communications from Tanya Cox, Daniel’s wife.  She arranged for hotel accommodations in Bozeman for the night before the trip, and offered a discount of $100 for being a first-time traveler with Natural Exposures.  I was also able to book the trip without the lodging costs since I had Holiday Inn points I could use for free lodging.

The afternoon drive to West Yellowstone was a little over two hours, and we stopped to photograph big horn sheep on a hill by the road.  That evening we met to discuss the upcoming trips into the park, photographic considerations for snow and high contrast, and Dan showed some of his work. We also filled in menu selections for the box lunches that Tanya would prepare for us.  There was a group dinner in the hotel restaurant following the presentation.

Day One – to Lower Geyser Basin

Natural Exposures uses 28 passenger tour vehicles (snow yacht, which have been designed for travel on snow in winter as well as on the road pavement the rest of the year.  With only 14 participants, we each had two seats so we had plenty of room for our gear.  We headed out from the hotel at 7 AM in anticipation of some delay at the park entrance station, which didn’t happen, and we arrived at the Madison River in low light conditions due to the heavy overcast.  We stopped near several groups of tundra swans and stayed there while the light brightened.  It was an excellent opportunity as we had adults and signets, preening behavior, take-offs, fly-bys, and landings.  Moving down the road, which follows the river, we stopped to photograph elk, bison, and eagles.  We stopped for a hot drink and pastry break at Madison Junction, which also has a warming hut and heated restrooms.  Heading south from here, we drove along Firehole Canyon Drive, stopping to photograph the cascades and walk along the road for other scenic views of the river.  Lower Geyser Basin is a short drive from Firehole Canyon and we stopped here for an hour to explore the Fountain Paint Pots and other thermal features along the boardwalk trail.  It’s very difficult to get still photos that fully capture the dynamics of thermal features.  Luckily, I didn’t forget that I have video capture capability on my Canon cameras, and actually remembered to use it once in a while.  The return to West Yellowstone included stops whenever bison, elk, and eagles offered the opportunities.  As we neared Madison Junction we received a report that a bobcat was on the prowl along the river.  Dan mentioned that he had heard of the bobcat for the last three years but had never seen it.   By the time we found the bobcat, it was getting pretty dark and snowing, but we couldn’t pass up this opportunity.

Day Two – to Norris Geyser Basin

It snowed overnight and we weren’t disappointed with the snow covered bison we found along the Madison River as well as snow covered trees and a fresh layer of snow everywhere.  It continued to snow on-and-off through the morning and we did have blue skies at times later in the day.  We spent a long time with an eagle perched in a tree across the river and we followed it as it moved up the river.  It was likely the same eagle we photographed the day before in the same tree.  Great looks for a long time.  Once again we stopped at Madison Junction for the facilities and a snack break.  Today we turned north and stopped for a while at Gibbon Falls.  The parking area and paths had been renovated in the recent road upgrades and while there were railings to protect visitors from falling into the canyon, they were of little benefit as the snow was packed down and three feet deep.  Only the top of the railing and stone walls showed.  The demarcation of packed snow to loose snow was impossible to determine in many locations and stepping out too far from the vehicle tracks could result in being hip deep in snow, as several of us found out.  Gibbon Falls was an interesting place to photograph with distant and close views available to those who decided to walk down the road, and back uphill.  The Norris Geyser Basin offered two trails to follow, one short and the other longer with an elevation change.  We only had an hour here so I chose to follow the short path figuring I’d have more time to photograph whatever interested me.  One difficulty with the paths here are that the number of visitors is probably less than some of the other spots and the deep snow on the boardwalks are only packed down in the very center.  Letting someone pass was an interesting exercise.  One feature here is that small pine trees are bent over with the weight of accumulating snow next to thermal vents and pools that have no snow accumulation at all.  We made a few stops along the way back to West Yellowstone for scenics and a particularly well lit bison foraging near the road.  As we neared Madison Junction, we again received a report of the bobcat hunting along the river.  This time the light was still low but at least it wasn’t snowing;  the action was limited as the cat stayed in one location, watching, napping, grooming.  No waterfowl floated by, which could have been exciting.  It would have been a toss-up of who was more excited, the birds or the photographers.

Day 3 – to Old Faithful

The temperature was colder than previous days, about 0º Fahrenheit to start the day.  While this sounds bad it was indeed a good thing.  The cold atmosphere in combination with moist air results in anything nearby being frosted.  We weren’t disappointed; frosted trees, frosted bison, steam rising from the rivers, we had it all.  Trees near the river were frosted from the steam rising from the water and the steam added some interest to the scene, but it was a challenge to capture images of wildlife near the river shooting through the mist.  A breeze was blowing the steam by one bison, and by watching and waiting I did get some images with less steam between me and the animal, resulting in images that show the effect of the steam on the bison in this cold environment.  Another effect of moist air on cold fur occurs with bison breath frosting their faces.  We were fortunate to arrive at the thermal areas near Fountain Flats while the frost was still on the trees; on the return trip from Old Faithful all the frost had melted.  Near Midway Geyser Basin we had good views of bison on both sides of the Firehole River.  The time at Old Faithful in the Upper Geyser Basin was limited to a little more than an hour due to all the stops for wildlife we made on the way.  Just barely enough time to get to a few nearby thermal features. Along the way back to West Yellowstone we stopped to photograph an eagle flying over the river, watching the ducks, hoping for a dynamic moment that never came.  The eagle perched on the top of a pine tree for a while, but by the time I had retrieved my big lens from the bus, it had flown off.

Day 4 – to Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

Today we switched to two small vans since the snow “yacht” didn’t have the legs to reach the canyon and return on a single tank of fuel.  The smaller vehicles had similar accommodations as the larger vehicle with two seats for each photographer.  We headed out along the Madison River with a forecast of snow for the day.  It did snow at first, but we were treated to breaks in the snow, with some blue sky.  We stopped for scenery and elk along the river until out morning break at Madison Junction.  The rest stop was crowded with buses, vans, snow coaches, and snowmobiles.  On previous days the rest stop had only one or two vehicles; we had stopped frequently to photograph along the Madison River and reached the rest stop well after the normal vehicle tour schedule.  From here we headed to Norris where we turned west towards Canyon.  It also started snowing heavily.  We ate our box lunches at the visitor center which had a large room with picnic tables.  On previous days we ate in the bus, either at a rest stop or while we were traveling to save time.  As we headed over to the scenic overlooks of Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, it continued to snow heavily.  Not looking good as we stopped to photograph the Yellowstone River from a bridge.  As luck would have it, the snow stopped when we arrived at the overlook of the Lower Falls, a 306 foot drop with water thundering over into the canyon bottom.  Ice formations on either side of the falls were conspicuous even from such a great distance.  We also stopped at Upper Falls, and then headed to Hayden Valley in hopes of seeing wildlife.  It was quiet there, with a couple of bison in the middle of the valley a mile or so away.  They were mighty small in the viewfinder.  The drive back to West Yellowstone seemed long, and it I’m certain it would have seemed longer if I had to drive; the snow was very heavy and it was difficult to see the road.  Traffic wasn’t much of a problem, but if one were to veer off the road slightly, the unpacked sides would cause a problem for the vehicle.  (More on that in Part 2.)  After we arrived at the hotel, we met for a pizza supper and many participants provided images to share with the group.  Dan also showed videos of their Canadian Rockies trip and an Africa trip (these and others can be viewed on the Natural Exposures website).

The next morning we headed back to Bozeman to catch flights home, or pick up a rental car as I did to extend the trip in other locations.

General Comments on Natural Exposures

I was very impressed with the logistics provided and the care Dan and Tanya, as well as their office staff, took to ensure that the participant’s needs were met.  One person had a late arrival at the airport and one of the staff met that individual at the airport and drove him down to West Yellowstone that evening.  Another person was a day late due to weather induced travel problems and Tanya drove up to the airport and back to bring that participant to the group.   A few weeks before the trip, a package arrived with a down vest, insulated coffee mug and a folio of information for the trip, and on arrival at the West Yellowstone hotel room I found a re-useable water bottle, a bag of chocolate truffles, some toiletries, and a bottle of wine.  Very nice touch.  The lunches that Tanya made for us were packaged in re-usable plastic containers which held a hefty sandwich, drink, desert and fruit, yogurt or other item.  A variety of chips was also available.  The lunches were different every day with exception of the sandwich that was selected for that day on the first night.  Out in the park, if anyone wanted to photograph something, they would shout out and the bus would stop and those interested would jump out and do their thing.   I think the time spent at the Norris could have been better spent at the Midway Geyser Basin’s Grand Prismatic Spring or have more time at the Upper Geyser Basin near Old Faithful.   Because of the travel time involved, it would require reducing the amount of time we spent with some wildlife along the way, but that could have been handled on those occasions that the scene wasn’t changing dynamically enough to warrant staying at that location.  That’s my only nit to pick.  I can see why many of the participants had traveled with Dan and Tanya in the past, and several had already booked future trips with them.  I know I’ll be visiting their website regularly and will likely travel with them again.

Yellowstone National Park in Winter – Part 2